One of my favorite parts of learning to cook is having the chance to learn about cultures through different foods. I love paging through cookbooks that contain recipes I’ve never tried and learning something about the history and tradition behind these recipes. In preparation for Passover, I was sent a copy of The New Jewish Table, written by Todd Gray and Ellen Kassoff Gray of Washington D.C.’s Equinox Restaurant. The cookbook takes traditional Jewish recipes and turns them into beautiful modern dishes.
The cookbook is filled with a ton of re-imagined comfort foods, and is broken into seasons to make the most of seasonally available product. The last few pages of the book also has suggested menus for Jewish holidays. I hope to cook through the Passover menu over the coming days because it all sounds so delicious (besides the gefilte fish, sorry haha.)
The Grays’ have filled the cookbook with personal stories and notes throughout that give a family feel and a background to their traditions which is a really nice touch. Each recipe is also labeled by type of recipe to make it easy to keep kosher: dairy, meat, parve, or mixed. Todd Gray’s childhood traditions are also present throughout the cookbook and include a few nods to traditional Pennsylvania Dutch recipes. (I particularly liked these recipes because, well, what is more comforting that food from the Pennsylvania Dutch?)
This cookbook almost reads like a memory book and is filled with wonderful stories, photographs, and obviously recipes. The New Jewish Table would be great for someone who is interested in learning about Jewish traditions through food and those who have grown up with these traditions and are looking for a fresh update to their family favorites.
I decided to make the recipe on the cover, called “Not Exactly Aunt Lil’s Matzo Ball Soup.” The recipe is a more polished version of Ellen Kassoff Gray’s Great Aunt’s soup. It has noodles in it, but to make it for Passover, this version below has omitted them. Todd Gray’s spin on this traditional recipe turns a comforting dish into a truly beautiful dish. I altered the dish very slightly, but my version is below. To see the original recipe, be sure to pick up a copy of this cookbook.
This recipe falls into the “meat” category. It is also appropriate for Passover.
Ingredients:
Caramelized Shallots:
- 2 cups chopped shallots
- 1/4 cup canola oil
- 3/4 teaspoon salt
Matzo Balls:
- 3 large eggs
- 2 tablespoons margarine, melted
- 1/4 cup club soda
- 1 cup matzo meal
- 1/2 cup chopped Caramelized Onions (above)
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Soup:
- One 3-pound whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces (ask your butcher to do this for you)
- 1 large yellow onion, quarterd
- 2 celery ribs, chopped
- 2 small carrots, chopped
- 1 medium turnip, chopped
- 6 garlic cloves, crushed
- 1 bunch parsley, washed and blotted dry
- 2 bay leaves
- 4 sprigs fresh thyme
- 12 black peppercorns
- 1 tablespoon salt
Garnish:
- 2 cups finely diced carrots
- 1 cup chopped celery
- 1 cup finely diced turnips
- 1/2 cup sliced scallions, both green and white parts